Different Types of Garage Doors in Australia: Pros & Prices

Choosing a garage door isn’t just picking a look off a colour chart. It has to clear your car, suit your opening, handle wind and weather, work with an opener, and still fit your budget. Maybe your carport has limited headroom, you live on a breezy coast, or you want a quieter, insulated door under a bedroom. With roller, sectional (panel lift), tilt/counterweight, side‑sliding and side‑hinged options—plus wind‑locked and insulated variants—the “right” choice depends on space, structure and how you use the garage day to day.

This guide compares Australia’s main garage door types with clear pros and cons, space and structural needs, materials and finishes, maintenance, and realistic price ranges. We also cover DIY versus professional installation—when a self‑fit makes sense and when engineering or compliance matters. You’ll get a quick primer on Australian‑made online options from DoorSupply, then deep dives on roller, sectional, tilt/counterweight, side‑sliding and side‑hinged doors, plus insulated, wind‑rated and semi‑commercial models for sheds and workshops. By the end, you’ll know which door suits your opening, climate and budget—and what to expect to pay.

1. DoorSupply: DIY Australian-made roller and sectional doors online

If you want a made-to-measure door without showroom mark-ups, DoorSupply lets you buy Australian-made roller and sectional (panel lift) doors online, sized to your exact opening. Built in Melbourne from Bluescope Colorbond or Zincalume steel, they ship door-to-door across Australia with free delivery to most major cities and clear DIY installation guides.

How it works

Enter your opening size, choose the door type (standard domestic, wind-locked/wind-strong, semi‑commercial roller, or sectional), pick a Colorbond colour, then select a manual lock or an electric opener from brands like Merlin, ATA, RD Motor or Grifco. Your custom door is manufactured locally and delivered ready to install.

Best for

Homeowners and DIYers who want a quality, custom-size door at sharp pricing, with:

• Straightforward openings: Single/double garages, sheds, carports.
• Regional needs: High-wind areas needing wind‑locked or wind‑strong roller doors.
• End-to-end kit: Door plus matched opener and accessories in one order.

Space and structural needs

• Roller doors: Need headroom above the opening to house the drum/curtain.
• Sectional doors: Need ceiling depth for horizontal tracks; suit standard residential garages. Ensure solid jambs/lintels and true openings for smooth operation.

Materials and finishes

Manufactured from Australian Bluescope Colorbond steel in popular colours, or Zincalume for a galvanised look. Sectional doors offer contemporary panel profiles; roller doors feature the classic ribbed curtain.

Pros

• Australian-made: Local manufacturing and materials.
• Custom sizes: Built to your exact measurements.
• Wind-rated options: Wind‑locked/wind‑strong variants available.
• Competitive pricing: “Great doors at the best prices” positioning.
• Nationwide delivery: Free to most major cities.
• DIY friendly: Step-by-step PDF guides; brand-name openers.

Cons

• Measure twice: DIY measuring/fit puts accuracy on you.
• Complex sites: Non-standard frames or tricky renovations may need a pro.
• Limited boutique finishes: For bespoke timber/glass designs, a specialist fabricator may suit better.

Indicative prices (Australia)

Actual pricing depends on opening size, door type (roller vs sectional), wind rating, chosen colour, and whether an opener is included. As a rule of thumb, roller doors are typically more budget-friendly than sectional doors. Delivery is included to most main cities.

DIY vs professional install

Competent DIYers can install with the supplied guides, especially standard domestic roller doors. Consider a professional for larger/heavier doors, sectional systems, wind‑locked models requiring higher spring tension, or when electrical work and compliance are involved.

Maintenance and lifespan

Wash with mild soapy water, check balance and fixings, keep tracks clean, and service openers (batteries/limits). Colorbond steel and quality hardware offer durable performance; routine checks help ensure smooth, long-term operation.

2. Roller doors (the Australian classic)

Among the different types of garage doors, the roller door is Australia’s go‑to for simple, tough and budget‑friendly access. A ribbed steel curtain travels up the guides and coils neatly above the opening, keeping floor space clear and daily use fuss‑free.

How it works

A continuous curtain of ribbed steel runs in vertical side tracks and winds around a drum above the lintel (think “rolling up a carpet”). Operation can be manual with a centre lock or automated with a ceiling or barrel‑mounted opener.

Best for

If you want reliable access with minimal intrusion into the garage, a roller door is a strong fit. It also suits sheds and drive‑through fenceline openings, and can be specified in wind‑locked versions for exposed sites.

• Tight interiors: Compact storage above the opening.
• Sheds/carports: Practical for straightforward structures.
• High‑wind regions: Wind‑locked/wind‑strong variants are available.
• Value seekers: Typically the most economical choice.

Space and structural needs

Roller doors require headroom above the opening to house the drum and rolled curtain. Ensure a level lintel and plumb jambs; side room is modest, and backspace needs are generally lower than sectional doors.

Materials and finishes

Made from Australian Bluescope Colorbond steel in a wide colour palette, or Zincalume for a galvanised look. The classic ribbed curtain profile gives strength and a clean, urban style.

Pros

Roller doors are praised for durability and low upkeep, with simple mechanisms that stand up to weather and daily use. They’re versatile on size and can be operated manually or with popular openers.

• More affordable: Generally cheaper than sectional or tilt options.
• Space‑efficient: Minimal internal projection when open.
• Durable: Steel curtain resists the elements and knocks.
• Low maintenance: Few moving parts.

Cons

Design flexibility is more limited than sectional or tilt doors, and the curtain needs clear headroom to store above the opening. Significant curtain damage can necessitate larger‑scale replacement.

• Fewer design options: Limited windows or decorative features.
• Headroom required: Needs space above the lintel.
• Damage replacement: Major dents can affect the whole curtain.
• Security: Can be less secure than some higher‑spec alternatives.

Indicative prices (Australia)

Roller doors are typically the lowest‑cost of the main residential door types. Final price varies with opening size, wind rating (standard vs wind‑locked/semi‑commercial), finish (Colorbond vs Zincalume), and whether an automatic opener is included.

DIY vs professional install

Standard domestic roller doors are DIY‑friendly with clear measuring and installation guides. Use a professional for very wide/heavy doors, wind‑rated models with higher tensions, tricky frames, or when electrical work and compliance are involved.

Maintenance and lifespan

Wash the curtain and guides periodically with mild soapy water, keep tracks clear, and check fixings and balance annually. With Colorbond steel and quality hardware, roller doors offer long, reliable service with minimal attention.

3. Sectional (panel lift) garage doors

Among the different types of garage doors, sectional (panel lift) models deliver a sleek, modern look with the most styling flexibility. Made from horizontal panels that travel up and back under the ceiling, they’re quiet in operation, highly customisable, and a strong choice when you want insulation or windows built in.

How it works

Several hinged panels run in vertical side tracks, then curve and glide along horizontal ceiling tracks as the door opens. The sections park flat beneath the garage ceiling. Operation can be manual, but they’re at their best paired with a matched automatic opener.

Best for

Sectional doors suit standard residential garages and style‑conscious façades where design choice, quietness and comfort matter.

• Modern street appeal: Multiple panel profiles, colours and window options.
• Low‑noise access: Smooth, quiet travel is ideal under living spaces.
• Comfort year‑round: Insulated panel options improve thermal and acoustic performance.
• Short driveways: Minimal outward swing compared with tilt doors.

Space and structural needs

You’ll need adequate headroom for the curve and a clear ceiling area for the horizontal tracks and opener. A true, square opening with solid jambs/lintel ensures smooth travel and proper sealing. Ground clearance demands are modest as the door rises vertically before tracking overhead.

Materials and finishes

Sectional doors are commonly produced in steel with Colorbond finishes for durability, and are also available in aluminium or timber looks. Design features can include integrated windows and ventilation grilles, and many ranges offer insulated panels for improved efficiency.

Pros

Sectional doors combine strength with standout customisation and everyday ease.

• Highly customisable: Profiles, colours, glazing and grilles.
• Insulation-ready: Options for thermal and sound performance.
• Quiet, smooth operation: Great for frequent daily use.
• Better security: Robust hardware and panel design.
• Spot repairs: Replace a damaged panel instead of the whole door.

Cons

The trade‑off for flexibility is more hardware and setup complexity.

• Higher upfront cost than most roller doors.
• More moving parts can mean more maintenance.
• Installation is more complex; precise alignment and spring setup required.
• Requires ceiling space for tracks and opener.

Indicative prices (Australia)

Pricing varies by opening size, panel profile, insulation, glazing and hardware, plus the cost of an automatic opener. As a guide, sectional doors generally sit above roller doors on price; premium finishes and insulated constructions add further.

DIY vs professional install

Capable DIYers can handle straightforward installs, but many households opt for a professional given the need for accurate track alignment and correct spring tensioning. Pro install is recommended for insulated/heavier doors, wide spans, or where compliance and electrical work apply.

Maintenance and lifespan

Wash the panels and wipe tracks periodically, lubricate hinges/rollers with suitable lubricant, and check fixings and balance annually. With quality materials and routine servicing, sectional doors provide long, quiet service; individual panels and hardware are replaceable if wear or damage occurs.

4. Tilt/counterweight garage doors

Tilt (counterweight) doors are the design chameleons among the different types of garage doors. The entire face opens as one solid panel, swinging out and up in a smooth arc before sitting parallel to the ceiling. They shine where you want a flush, architect‑led façade and have limited headroom—but they do need clear space in front to open.

How it works

A single rigid panel pivots on side arms or top hinges, assisted by springs or counterweights that balance the door’s mass. Heavier bespoke cladding can be engineered with custom weights, and operation can be manual or automated with a matched opener.

Best for

If your priority is façade integration and low headroom, a tilt/counterweight door is a strong contender. It’s popular on contemporary builds and custom projects.

• Flush or concealed façades: Accepts battens, metal skins, or render‑ready finishes.
• Low headroom garages: Minimal space above the lintel required.
• Custom designs: Windows, feature timbers, or unique materials.

Space and structural needs

Allow driveway clearance for the outward swing. Frames must be plumb, square and robust, with a solid lintel and jambs to carry the loads. Heavier cladding increases forces at fixings and may require engineered counterweights and specific hardware.

Materials and finishes

Highly flexible: plywood, aluminium, copper, timber species, acrylic/perspex, or Colorbond steel skins. Many suppliers offer “frame‑only” doors for your builder to clad. Note that cladding weight and fixing methods dictate the door mechanism and balance.

Pros

Tilt/counterweight doors deliver premium looks with simple mechanics.

• Highly customisable: Accepts diverse claddings and glazing.
• Minimal headroom: Suits shallow lintels.
• Fewer moving parts: Straightforward mechanism and strong panel.
• Manual or automated: Works either way.

Cons

Trade‑offs relate to space and engineering.

• Needs forecourt clearance: Panel swings outwards.
• Higher cost potential: Custom cladding/engineering add up.
• Engineering limits: Heavy façades need careful design and setup.

Indicative prices (Australia)

Typically pricier than basic roller doors and comparable to—or above—sectional doors when bespoke cladding or counterweights are involved. Final costs hinge on size, material weight, hardware and automation.

DIY vs professional install

Because balance and safety depend on correct spring/counterweight setup, professional installation is recommended—especially with heavy or custom cladding. DIY may be feasible for lighter, standardised tilt units, with any electrical work done by a licensed contractor.

Maintenance and lifespan

Clean the door face per the cladding manufacturer’s advice, lubricate pivots/arms, and check balance, fixings and safety stops periodically. Schedule checks for springs/cables or counterweights. Well‑engineered systems provide long service with routine attention.

5. Side-sliding sectional doors

Among the different types of garage doors, side‑sliding sectional doors move horizontally along the wall instead of up and over. They’re brilliant when ceiling space is obstructed by beams or storage, keeping the roof area clear while offering smooth, quiet access and easy partial opening for walk‑throughs.

How it works

Interlinked sectional panels run in vertical guides and glide sideways along a wall‑mounted track, typically with a discreet floor or lower guide. The door parks neatly against the side wall; operation can be manual or automated.

Best for

If your garage has low headroom or ceiling obstructions, side‑sliding doors solve space clashes and keep overhead areas free.

• Low headroom/obstructed ceilings
• Pedestrian access via partial opening
• Garages needing ceiling storage

Space and structural needs

You’ll need a full‑length, unobstructed side wall at least as long as the opening width, plus sound walls/jambs for tracks and guides. Floors should be even and clear where the lower guide runs for smooth travel and sealing.

Materials and finishes

Built like standard sectional doors—most commonly Colorbond steel panels—with options for profiles, colours, glazing and, on some ranges, insulation or ventilation grilles to suit comfort and style requirements.

Pros

• Ceiling kept clear: Ideal under beams or storage.
• Low headroom friendly: Minimal space above the lintel.
• Partial opening: Handy everyday walk‑throughs.
• Quiet, smooth operation: Comfortable daily use.

Cons

• Needs clear side wall: Full opening width along one side.
• Lower guide care: Debris can affect travel/seal.
• Fewer suppliers: More specialised than standard types.

Indicative prices (Australia)

Pricing varies by size, hardware, finishes, and automation. Expect costs above basic roller doors and generally comparable to—or higher than—standard sectional doors when options like glazing or insulation are added.

DIY vs professional install

Experienced DIYers may handle straightforward installs, but precise track alignment, sealing and automation setup often favour professional installation—especially on wide/heavy doors or uneven floors/walls.

Maintenance and lifespan

Wash panels and wipe tracks, keep the lower guide free of grit, and lubricate hinges/rollers as specified. Periodic checks of fixings, limits and seals help ensure long, quiet service similar to other sectional systems.

6. Side-hinged (swing-out) garage doors

Side‑hinged doors are the classic double “barn” leaves that swing open from the jambs. They suit heritage looks, workshops and studios where you want full ceiling clearance and simple walk‑in access. Among the different types of garage doors, they’re the least intrusive overhead because there’s no track under the ceiling.

How it works

Two rigid leaves hang on heavy‑duty hinges fixed to the side jambs and swing outward in an arc. Most are manually operated with surface bolts and keyed locks; weather seals and threshold ramps improve draught and water control.

Best for

When you prioritise façade character and everyday pedestrian access, side‑hinged doors make daily life easy.

• Heritage and cottage façades: Traditional proportions and detailing.
• Studios/workshops: Uncluttered ceiling space; easy partial opening.
• Garages with low headroom or ceiling obstructions.

Space and structural needs

You’ll need clear driveway space for the swing arc and a reasonably level apron to avoid the leaves scraping. Solid jambs, quality hinges and latch points are essential, and wind exposure should be considered because gusts act directly on open leaves.

Materials and finishes

Leaves can be built in Colorbond‑skinned steel over frames, aluminium, or timber (solid or clad), with options for glazing and insulation. Colour‑matched hardware and seals help the door blend with the façade while improving comfort.

Pros

Side‑hinged doors trade overhead tracks for simple, robust hardware and everyday convenience.

• Minimal headroom: No ceiling tracks or drums.
• Easy walk‑through: Open one leaf for quick access.
• Quiet, low‑maintenance hardware with straightforward components.
• Façade-friendly: Works with traditional or bespoke designs.

Cons

The main compromises relate to space and exposure.

• Needs clear forecourt: Leaves swing into the driveway.
• Wind sensitivity: Open leaves can catch gusts.
• Ground level matters: Uneven aprons can foul the swing.
• Security depends on hardware; multipoint locking is advisable.

Indicative prices (Australia)

Costs vary widely with size, frame type, cladding (steel vs timber), glazing, insulation and locking hardware. As a general guide, expect pricing to span from comparable with standard sectional/tilt doors to higher for custom timber or architect‑specified finishes.

DIY vs professional install

Competent DIYers can fit lighter, pre‑hung sets to true openings. For heavy timber leaves, bespoke frames, precise weather‑sealing, or when wind exposure demands upgraded hardware, a professional install is recommended.

Maintenance and lifespan

Wash steel skins with mild soapy water, touch up paint as needed, and lubricate hinges and latches annually. Timber requires periodic sealing or repainting. Check seals, bolts and fixings regularly; with routine care, side‑hinged doors offer long, dependable service.

7. Wind-locked and high-wind roller doors

If your home cops strong gusts or you’re near the coast or open country, standard doors can be pushed around. Wind‑locked and high‑wind roller doors address this by meeting higher wind load requirements, adding strength and features that help keep the curtain secure in its guides during storms.

How it works

These are roller doors engineered for elevated wind loads. The ribbed steel curtain travels in reinforced side guides and stores above the opening like a classic roller, with hardware specified for higher forces.

Best for

Homes and sheds in exposed locations that need extra resilience without changing to a different door type.

• Coastal and ridge‑top sites
• Regional and open paddock exposures
• Sheds/workshops with wide openings
• Insurance or compliance-driven upgrades

Space and structural needs

Headroom and side room are similar to standard roller doors, but frames must be plumb and robust, with suitable fixings into sound structure to resist racking under load.

Materials and finishes

Australian Bluescope Colorbond steel or Zincalume, in classic ribbed profiles. Options align with standard roller doors; the difference is in the wind‑rated hardware specification.

Pros

• Higher wind resistance: Designed to stay engaged under load.
• Familiar operation: Same everyday use as a standard roller.
• Australian-made options: Local steel and manufacture available.
• Versatile sizing: Suitable for garages and larger sheds.

Cons

• Higher upfront cost than standard roller doors.
• Heavier hardware: May need larger openers/springs.
• Tighter install tolerances to achieve rating.

Indicative prices (Australia)

Expect a premium over standard domestic roller doors, varying with opening size, rating level (wind‑locked vs wind‑strong), finish, and whether automation is included.

DIY vs professional install

Confident DIYers can handle basics, but wind‑rated models benefit from professional installation due to higher spring tensions, stricter alignment, and compliance with wind load requirements.

Maintenance and lifespan

Wash with mild soapy water, keep guides clear, and check fixings, balance and seals—especially after storm events. With routine care, wind‑rated roller doors deliver long, reliable service in exposed conditions.

8. Insulated garage doors (thermal and acoustic)

If you use your garage as a gym, workshop or laundry—or there’s a bedroom above—insulated doors lift comfort and quiet. Among the different types of garage doors, insulated options are most commonly sectional (panel lift) systems, with panels and seals designed to cut heat transfer and reduce street noise while keeping the clean, modern look you want.

How it works

Insulated sectional doors use multi‑layer panels with built‑in thermal features, paired with quality perimeter/top/bottom seals. The door rises vertically in side tracks and parks flat under the ceiling like any sectional, but the panel construction and sealing improve thermal and acoustic performance. Many ranges also offer windows and ventilation grilles for airflow where needed.

Best for

Insulated doors make sense wherever comfort and noise control matter.

• Rooms above/adjacent to the garage: Improve liveability under bedrooms or living areas.
• Home gyms, studios and workshops: More stable temperatures and less noise bleed.
• Busy roads/coastal weather: Helps soften traffic noise and buffer heat/cold.

Space and structural needs

Plan for standard sectional requirements: adequate headroom for the curve and clear ceiling space for horizontal tracks and opener. Insulated panels are typically heavier, so ensure solid jambs/lintel and specify hardware and opener suited to the door’s weight.

Materials and finishes

Most insulated sectional doors are steel with durable Colorbond finishes in a wide colour range. Profiles vary from modern flat to ribbed designs, with optional glazing and, on some ranges, ventilation grilles to balance comfort and airflow.

Pros

• Thermal comfort: Helps moderate garage temperatures year‑round.
• Noise reduction: Quieter inside and out during operation and at rest.
• Design flexibility: Colours, panel profiles and window options.
• Smooth, quiet operation: Suits frequent daily use.

Cons

• Higher upfront cost than non‑insulated sectional or basic roller doors.
• Heavier hardware: Requires matched springs/rollers and a suitable opener.
• More parts to set up: Precision matters for sealing and balance.

Indicative prices (Australia)

Expect a premium over standard sectional doors. Final price depends on size, panel specification, glazing, hardware and automation. Insulation and feature options add to cost compared with entry‑level roller doors.

DIY vs professional install

Experienced DIYers can fit straightforward insulated sectional systems, but many households opt for professional installation due to heavier panels, precise track alignment and correct spring tensioning—especially on wide or tall openings and when adding automation.

Maintenance and lifespan

Clean panels with mild soapy water, wipe tracks, and lubricate hinges/rollers as specified. Inspect and replace seals as they age to maintain performance, and check fixings and opener limits annually. With routine care, insulated sectionals deliver long, quiet, comfortable service.

9. Timber look and designer doors (aluminium, glass, battens, flush-mount)

If street appeal is the brief, designer doors deliver. Among the different types of garage doors, these are built to integrate with an architect‑led façade—think aluminium battens, timber look profiles, glazed panels, louvres, mesh or a seamless flush‑mount finish. They’re usually engineered on sectional (panel) or tilt/counterweight platforms so the mechanism suits the cladding weight and design.

How it works

Designer doors pair a structural door frame with customised skins or inserts. Sectional versions use panel frames that accept slats, glazing or mesh and park under the ceiling; tilt/counterweight versions use a single rigid leaf that swings up, ideal for heavier, bespoke cladding and true flush‑mount installs. Many suppliers offer “frame‑only” so your builder can clad to match the façade.

Best for

When you want the garage to look like part of the architecture—not an add‑on—designer doors shine. They also solve practical needs like privacy and airflow with louvres or mesh.

• Flush, concealed façades and batten continuity
• Low headroom sites (tilt/counterweight)
• Light/air needs (glazing, louvres, mesh)

Space and structural needs

Choose the mechanism to suit the site: sectional needs ceiling space, tilt needs driveway clearance for the swing. Flush‑mount detailing demands precise framing, set‑downs, and robust jambs/lintels, with hardware sized to the cladding weight and local wind exposure.

Materials and finishes

Common options include:

• Aluminium slats/battens/louvres (low‑maintenance, coastal‑friendly)
• Timber look steel (Colorbond‑style finishes) or real timber (e.g., cedar battens/panels)
• Glazed/acrylic panels for modern façades
• Perforated/mesh panels for ventilation
• Metal skins (aluminium, copper) on tilt/counterweight frames

Pros

• Façade integration: Match battens, lines and materials
• High customisation: Profiles, glazing, ventilation
• Low headroom capable: With tilt/counterweight
• Strong street appeal: Premium look and feel

Cons

• Higher cost: Premium materials/engineering
• Heavier assemblies: Requires matched springs/counterweights and openers
• Precision install: Tight tolerances for flush alignment
• Timber upkeep: Sealing/recoating as required

Indicative prices (Australia)

Expect pricing above standard roller and most non‑insulated sectional doors, with wide variance by size, cladding (real timber and glass cost more), hardware and automation. Heavier façades and flush‑mount detailing add to the budget.

DIY vs professional install

Because balance, clearances and cladding loads are critical, professional installation is strongly recommended—especially for tilt/counterweight or flush‑mount designs. DIY may suit lighter, pre‑engineered sectional kits; any electrical work must be completed by a licensed contractor.

Maintenance and lifespan

Maintain per material: wash aluminium/steel with mild soapy water; re‑seal or repaint real timber periodically; inspect battens/inserts for secure fixings. Lubricate moving hardware, check balance and fasteners annually, and keep seals in good order for long, trouble‑free service.

10. Semi-commercial roller doors for sheds and workshops

Among the different types of garage doors, semi‑commercial roller doors are the tough, larger‑format cousins of domestic rollers. Built for frequent cycling and wider, taller openings, they’re a practical choice for farms, workshops and light industrial spaces where reliability, clearance and security matter.

How it works

Like a standard roller door, a ribbed steel curtain runs in vertical guides and coils above the opening—but semi‑commercial models use heavier‑duty drums, springs, guides and fixings to handle bigger sizes and higher loads. They’re commonly paired with suitably rated automatic openers.

Best for

When your opening is larger or the door sees more daily use, semi‑commercial doors keep operations smooth.

• Farm sheds and workshops
• Wide/tall garage bays for utes, boats and vans
• Light industrial/storage units
• Exposed sites when combined with wind‑rated specs

Space and structural needs

Allow generous headroom for the drum and rolled curtain, plus solid jambs and a level, braced lintel to resist racking. Fixings must anchor into sound structure, and electrical supply should be planned for automation.

Materials and finishes

Constructed from Australian Bluescope Colorbond steel in popular colours or Zincalume for a galvanised finish. The classic ribbed curtain profile provides strength; wind‑rated hardware can be specified for exposed locations.

Pros

Semi‑commercial rollers trade complexity for capacity and durability.

• Built for bigger openings and more frequent use
• Durable hardware withstands weather and knocks
• Straightforward operation with manual or automatic options
• Low maintenance relative to size and duty

Cons

• Higher upfront cost than domestic roller doors
• Heavier assemblies need matched springs/openers
• Tighter install tolerances for smooth, safe operation
• Manual operation can be impractical on larger doors

Indicative prices (Australia)

Expect pricing above standard domestic roller doors, scaling with width/height, wind rating, finish (Colorbond vs Zincalume), hardware specification and whether an automatic opener is included.

DIY vs professional install

Skilled DIYers may handle smaller semi‑commercial sizes using clear guides, but professional installation is recommended for wide/heavy doors, wind‑rated models and sites requiring compliance and electrical connection.

Maintenance and lifespan

Wash the curtain and guides with mild soapy water, keep tracks clear of debris, and inspect fixings, balance and seals regularly—especially in high‑use sheds. Service openers and check limits annually. With routine care, semi‑commercial rollers deliver long, reliable service in demanding environments.

Key takeaways

Choosing the right garage door comes down to space, structure, climate and how you’ll use the garage. Measure headroom, side room and any clear side wall, note wind exposure, and decide if design features or insulation matter. Then match a mechanism to the site and your budget.

• Roller: Best value and low‑maintenance; needs headroom and offers limited styling.
• Sectional (panel lift): Most design/insulation options; needs ceiling tracks; higher cost and setup precision.
• Tilt/counterweight: Low headroom and flush façades; allow driveway swing; heavier cladding needs pro setup.
• Side‑sliding sectional: Keeps ceiling clear and allows partial opening; needs a full‑length clear side wall.
• Side‑hinged: No overhead gear and easy pedestrian access; needs forecourt space and sturdy hardware for wind.
• Wind‑locked roller: For exposed sites; heavier hardware and tighter install tolerances.
• Insulated sectional: Better comfort and noise control; heavier and pricier.
• Semi‑commercial roller: For larger openings and frequent use; plan for pro installation.

Ready to size and price your door? Order a custom Australian‑made roller or sectional door online at DoorSupply with free delivery to most major cities, DIY guides and matched openers.