Roller Door Installation Instructions For DIYers (Free PDF and Video Links)

Roller Door Installation Instructions For DIYers (Free PDFs)

Roller Door Installation Instructions For DIYers (Free PDFs and Video Links)

Fitting a roller garage door isn’t hard—until it is. Getting the brackets dead level, allowing enough headroom and side room, orienting the curtain correctly, and setting spring tension safely are the spots where DIYers get tripped up. Add Australian wind classification and basic compliance into the mix, and you’re right to want clear, reliable instructions backed by the exact manual for your door.

This guide gives you both: practical, step‑by‑step roller door installation instructions you can follow at the job site, plus free, brand‑specific PDF manuals for Taurean and B&D. We’ll keep safety front and centre, highlight where precision matters, and show you how to end up with a smooth, balanced door ready for manual use or an automatic opener.

Here’s what you’ll get below: quick links to download the right PDFs; the essential pre‑checks (safety, wind region, measurements); tools and fixings; bracket layout and lift‑on technique; spring tensioning done correctly; track installation and final hardware; balance testing; opener setup; special cases (WindLock, chain‑operated, high‑wind); troubleshooting coning and scraping; and a simple maintenance routine. Follow along from “inside looking out” to match the manuals—and avoid the common mistakes that cause callbacks. First up, grab the free PDFs you’ll need.

Step 1. Download the free roller door installation PDFs (Taurean, B&D)

Before you pick up a drill, grab the exact roller door installation instructions for your model. Taurean and B&D publish series‑specific PDFs that set out bracket offsets, required side/head/back room, hardware order (U‑bolts, saddles, flat washers), and spring turn counts by door size. Save the latest revision to your phone/tablet and print the key pages. Check the carton/endcap label to confirm your series so you don’t mix instructions. When reading instructions we’ll reference these using the inside‑looking‑out convention.

Tip: Keep a copy on site—manuals also show bracket centres, fastener types, and safety notes you’ll need later.

Step 2. Check safety requirements, wind classification, and compliance

Before any drilling, lock in your site safety and compliance. Roller doors are spring‑balanced and the axle is under tension—treat it with respect. Wear gloves, boots and safety goggles, keep the protective strapping on until told otherwise by the manual, and never work beneath an unsecured roll. Confirm your wind classification early: standard doors are fine for many areas, but high‑wind regions may require a WindLock door and the matching installation supplement. Finally, make sure the structure can take the loads and that you have the correct fixings for timber, masonry or steel.

  • PPE and workspace: Gloves, safety goggles, boots; clear the fall zone.
  • Structural check: Openings and walls must be sound and plumb.
  • Correct fixings: Use anchors/screws suited to your substrate.
  • Clearances: Verify side room, headroom and backroom per your PDF.
  • Wind classification: Use WindLock instructions where required.
  • Control the roll: Keep strapping on; don’t stand under an unfixed door.

Step 3. Measure the opening, side room, headroom, and backroom accurately

Accurate measurements decide whether your brackets land in the right place and whether the curtain clears everything on the way up. Work “inside looking out” to match your installation instructions, and record all measurements in millimetres. Use a tape plus a spirit/laser level so you’re checking size and squareness at the same time, not just “rough” width and height.  

  • Opening width and height: Measure width at top, middle and bottom; height on both jambs. Note any variation and floor fall.
  • Squareness and plumb: Check both diagonals and confirm jambs and lintel are plumb/level. Correct framing or plan packers if needed.
  • Side room (each side): Measure from the finished opening to the nearest obstruction. Confirm it meets your manual’s minimum for guides and fixings.
  • Headroom: From underside of lintel to the first obstruction (ceiling, beam, door tracks). Verify minimum headroom required by your series PDF.
  • Backroom (inside depth): From the opening back into the garage to store the rolled curtain (and an opener, if planned).
  • Record and mark: Transfer bracket centres and guide set‑outs from the PDF onto the walls, ready for Step 6.

Step 4. Gather tools, fixings, and arrange a capable assistant

A smooth, safe install starts with the right kit laid out and a second pair of hands booked. You’ll be lifting a rolled door onto brackets and applying spring tension, so stage two step ladders, keep your workspace clear, and have your fixings matched to the substrate (timber, masonry or steel). Hardware like U‑bolts, saddles and flat washers comes with the door—use flat washers under the U‑bolts as shown in the PDFs.

  • Tools: Two step ladders; laser and spirit levels; tape measure; marker; power drill and bits; socket set; screwdrivers; a large pipe wrench; Stanley knife; a softwood chock (~400 mm).
  • Fixings: Appropriate anchors/bolts for your wall type; packers if framing is out of plumb.
  • Handling gear: Gloves and safety goggles; ropes or lifting straps for controlled lifts.
  • People: One capable assistant for the lift and while tensioning—never work beneath an unsecured roll.

Step 5. Unpack, verify parts, and keep the door’s protective strapping on

Set the rolled door on a level surface, “inside looking out” orientation in mind, and keep the protective strapping and edge protectors on. Unpack the guides/tracks and the parts box, then cross‑check everything against your roller door installation instructions. Many kits include U‑bolts, saddles and flat washers—don’t substitute parts, and don’t remove the strapping yet; it controls the curtain until you’ve set spring tension later.

  • Confirm labels: Check the endcap/tag for door series and size match to your PDF.
  • Count components: Guides/tracks, parts box with U‑bolts, saddles and flat washers (washers go under U‑bolts per the manuals).
  • Lock included? If ordered, the lock is usually clipped to the end of the roll—set it aside with the bottom rail hardware.
  • Inspect for damage: Look for dents, bent guides or missing fixings; report issues before installing.
  • Handle correctly: Lift by the axle, not the curtain edges; never stand under an unsecured roll; keep strapping on until instructed.

Step 6. Mark bracket positions and fix both brackets level and square

Your brackets set the axle line; get them wrong and everything fights you. Working “inside looking out”, transfer the exact bracket offsets from your roller door installation instructions. This usually includes guide set‑outs, curtain overlap, and the axle height. Use a laser for a continuous level line, and fix into sound structure with the right anchors. Pack out irregular walls so both bracket faces end up in the same plane.

  • Lay out guides/overlap: Mark vertical guide lines and curtain overlap per your series PDF.
  • Set axle height: Strike a level line for the axle across both jambs; confirm headroom.
  • Fix first bracket: Drill and bolt securely; use flat washers under fixings; check plumb.
  • Fix second bracket: Align to the level line; match set‑out from opening on both sides.
  • Confirm square/co‑planar: Check diagonals and that bracket faces are flush and aligned; tighten fixings.

Step 7. Lift the rolled door onto the brackets safely and secure the axle loosely

This is the only lift—do it deliberately. Work “inside looking out” with two ladders and one capable assistant. Keep the protective strapping on the curtain, wear gloves and goggles, and never stand beneath an unfixed roll. Lift by the axle, not the curtain edges, and keep fingers clear of bracket slots.

  1. Stage the lift: Position a ladder at each bracket, clear the floor area, and agree on hand signals.
  2. Lift by the axle: With one person at each end, raise the rolled door together and rest the axle gently on the bracket tops.
  3. Seat the axle: Guide the axle journals into the bracket slots without twisting the roll; keep hold until both sides are captured.
  4. Fit hardware finger‑tight: Install the U‑bolts and saddles with the supplied flat washers under the U‑bolts, as specified in your roller door installation instructions. Do not fully tighten.
  5. Safety check: Confirm the roll cannot walk off the brackets and that both U‑bolts are engaged evenly. Only then step off the ladders.

You’ll centre the door and set the curtain orientation in the next step before tightening anything fully.

Step 8. Centre the door and orient the curtain correctly (inside-looking-out)

Getting the roll centred and the curtain paying off the correct side prevents tracking issues later. With the axle sitting in the brackets and hardware still only finger‑tight, work “inside looking out” so your marks match the roller door installation instructions. Keep the protective strapping on while you adjust.

  • Find centre: Mark the opening centreline on the lintel. Mark the roll’s centre on the axle/tube (measure curtain width and halve). Slide the roll left/right so both centrelines align.
  • Equalise edges: Measure from each curtain edge to the inside of the jamb. Adjust until both sides are equal (within a few millimetres).
  • Check pay‑off: The curtain must unroll down the front of the roll toward you; the bottom rail ends up inside the garage.
  • Square the bottom rail: Rotate the roll so the bottom rail is parallel with the floor/opening.
  • Lightly nip hardware: Keep U‑bolts just snug so the roll can still be tweaked in the next step.

Step 9. Fit U-bolts, saddles, and flat washers, then set initial spring tension

With the roll centred and oriented correctly, lock the axle to the brackets and pre‑load the spring. This is the moment where neat hardware install meets careful control of stored energy. Work “inside looking out”, keep the protective strapping on, and follow your series PDF for the exact turn count.

  1. Seat the axle fully in both brackets, then fit the saddles and U‑bolts with the supplied flat washers under the U‑bolts (as specified in the manuals). Tighten the nuts evenly so the axle is clamped square and cannot rotate.
  2. Recheck centre: confirm equal curtain overlap at both jambs and that the bottom rail is parallel with the opening before proceeding.
  3. Set initial tension: with your assistant steadying the roll, rotate the curtain forward (down the front towards you) the number of turns indicated in your roller door installation instructions. Larger doors need more turns—use the PDF’s table.
  4. Control the roll at all times—no fingers between curtain wraps, eyes protected, no one beneath the door.
  5. After pre‑load, re‑nip the U‑bolt nuts evenly and confirm the axle is still square in both saddles.

You’re now ready to release the strapping under control and bring the curtain into position in the next step.

Step 10. Cut the strapping under control and rotate the curtain into position

With initial spring tension set, you’ll bring the curtain alive—do it slowly and in control. Keep working “inside looking out”. One person holds the roll firmly (hands clear of the wraps), the other cuts the strapping on your signal. No one stands beneath the door. The curtain must roll down the front towards you so the bottom rail ends up inside the garage.

  1. Brace the roll: You and your assistant position on ladders at each end, gripping the axle/roll firmly. Confirm U‑bolts and saddles are snug.
  2. On your call, have your assistant cut the protective strapping while you maintain control of the roll and prevent any sudden movement.
  3. Rotate the curtain forward slowly, guiding it down the front of the roll. Keep fingers away from the curtain laps and edges.
  4. Bring the bottom rail into the opening and square it to the floor line. Check that both curtain edges present evenly to the jambs.
  5. Pause with the bottom rail just below lintel height—high enough to stay clear while you set up to lower and chock in the next step.

Safety check: The roll must never be unattended or free to unwind. Keep eye protection on and communicate every move.

Step 11. Pull the curtain down, chock securely, and install guides/tracks plumb

With initial tension on, you’ll now control the curtain down, hold it safely, and build the path it runs in. Work inside‑looking‑out. Keep fingers clear of edges and never let the roll freewheel. The goal is an even side overlap and guides set dead plumb so the door travels smoothly without scraping.

  1. Lower the curtain slowly until the bottom rail is just above waist height.
  2. Place a softwood chock behind the bottom rail to hold position and prevent the door from creeping.
  3. Align the curtain edges to your guide set‑out marks from Step 6 so the side overlaps are equal per your roller door installation instructions.
  4. Slide the first guide onto the curtain edge; offer it to the wall and fix loosely at the top only.
  5. Fit the second guide the same way, then use a spirit/laser level to set both guides perfectly plumb and co‑planar.
  6. Pack behind fixings where walls are out of true; do not twist the guides to “follow” a crooked surface.
  7. Cycle the door a small distance up/down by hand to confirm free travel, then fully tighten all guide fixings top‑to‑bottom.

Only proceed once both guides are secure, plumb and the curtain runs without snagging.

Step 12. Set bottom rail, handle/lock, and optional weight bar

With both guides plumb and secure, bring focus to the bottom rail. This is where you set the door’s closing line and add everyday usability. Work “inside looking out”, keep fingers clear of edges, and follow your series roller door installation instructions for any drilling templates and fixings.

  1. Square the bottom rail: Lower the curtain gently until it meets your floor line. Set the rail parallel to the floor and centred so side overlaps remain even.
  2. Fit the handle/lock: Mark the rail centreline, use the supplied template from your parts kit/PDF, drill as specified, then install the lock barrel and inside handle. Test key operation and ensure smooth engage/release. Avoid lubricating the lock.
  3. Tighten hardware: Nip all fasteners evenly; make sure no screws protrude to foul the guides.
  4. Install the weight bar (if supplied): Fix to the bottom rail as instructed to add stability and smoother travel. Check clearance at full open and closed; recheck balance later if added weight changes the feel.
  5. Functional check: Cycle the door by hand to confirm the handle clears the guides and the rail tracks straight without scraping.

Step 13. Adjust track clearance, stops, and side overlaps for smooth travel

With the guides fixed, take a few quiet minutes to fine‑tune. Small tweaks here stop scraping, binding and “walking” later on. Work “inside looking out” and use your roller door installation instructions as the reference while you check clearance, set the guide stops, and equalise side overlaps so the curtain glides from closed to fully open without rubbing.

  • Run and listen: Hand‑cycle the door fully down and up. Note any scrape or bind points.
  • Equalise side overlap: At mid‑height, measure both edges to the jambs; loosen and nudge a guide if one side is tighter.
  • Set guide clearance: Ensure a consistent, small gap between curtain edge and guide faces; pack behind fixings rather than twisting a guide.
  • Top stops: Fit/adjust the guide stops at the top as per your PDF so the curtain cannot ride out of the tracks at full open.
  • Tighten in sequence: Re‑square the bottom rail, then tighten guide fixings top‑to‑bottom.
  • Re‑test travel: Cycle again; if noise persists, check guides are still plumb and co‑planar. Do not oil the tracks—keep them clean.

Step 14. Perform a balance test and re-tension the spring if required

A correctly balanced door feels light, stays at waist height, and moves smoothly without help. Do this check before any opener is fitted. Work “inside looking out”, keep hands clear of edges, and follow your series roller door installation instructions for safety.

  1. Close the door fully, then lift to about waist height.
  2. If it stays put, tension is about right. If it drops, add tension. If it rises, reduce tension.
  3. Cycle fully up/down by hand. It should feel even through the stroke with no scraping.

If adjustment is needed, re-tension carefully—springs are under high load. Get a capable assistant or call a pro if unsure.

  1. Tie ropes around each end of the roll to secure it; set two step ladders.
  2. Wearing PPE, grip the axle firmly with a large pipe wrench.
  3. Loosen both U‑bolt nuts while maintaining control (flat washers remain under the U‑bolts).
  4. Rotate the axle clockwise to increase tension, anticlockwise to decrease.
  5. Re‑tighten U‑bolts evenly, then carefully release the wrench.
  6. Re‑test balance and repeat in small adjustments until the door holds at waist height.

Only proceed to opener setup once manual balance is correct.

Step 15. Install a roller door opener and program limits and safety sensors

Only fit an opener once the door passes the manual balance test. Most roller door motors are DIY‑friendly and don’t require electrical wiring if a power outlet is nearby—follow the manufacturer’s instructions closely and keep people clear during first runs. Work “inside looking out” so your setup matches your roller door installation instructions.

  1. Confirm balance: The door must lift smoothly and hold at waist height before motorising.
  2. Mount the motor: Fix the opener above the door centre using the supplied bracketry, square and secure.
  3. Couple to the axle: Attach the drive/shaft to the door axle per the opener manual; tighten all set screws evenly.
  4. Fit safety sensors: Install photo‑eyes on both sides of the opening at the specified height; align LEDs per the manual.
  5. Cable and power: Dress cables neatly, then plug into a nearby outlet as per the wiring diagram.
  6. Program limits and force: Set open/close travel limits and force settings; pair remotes if provided.
  7. Test thoroughly: Run multiple cycles and verify sensor operation and auto‑reverse behaviour. If movement is laboured, fix door balance/track issues—don’t “solve” with higher force.

Step 16. Special installs: WindLock, chain-operated, and high-wind setups

Some installs need different hardware and handling. If you’re fitting WindLock, a chain-operated door, or working in high‑wind regions, follow the exact series manual plus the WindLock Installation Supplement where applicable. The aim is secure engagement, controlled lifting, and fixings suited to the site and loads.

WindLock doors (wind regions)

WindLock guides and slats lock together to resist wind pressure, so the fitting order matters and tolerances are tighter. Keep lifts deliberate and avoid twisting the curtain so the locks don’t disengage.

  • Verify you have the WindLock supplement for your door series and use its sequence.
  • Offer guides loosely, then feed the curtain so WindLocks engage the guide channels evenly.
  • Keep edges aligned “inside looking out” and check equal engagement both sides.
  • Cycle the door short strokes while tightening fixings; do not oil guides.

Chain-operated doors (manual chain hoist)

Chain kits change the way you drive the axle. Keep the chain straight, safely reachable, and secured when not in use.

  • Mount the chain wheel/drive to the axle per the manual; tighten all set screws.
  • Route the hand chain through the wheel and guide; set light, smooth tension.
  • Fit a chain keeper/cleat to park the chain clear of vehicles and people.
  • Test full travel from the floor position; adjust so the chain doesn’t foul the guides.

High-wind setups (framing and fixings)

In higher wind classifications, door choice and fixings are critical. Professional installation is often recommended.

  • Confirm your wind classification and select WindLock/wind‑rated doors as required.
  • Follow series Framing Details; fix into sound structure with substrate‑appropriate anchors.
  • Use the specified hardware count and spacing from your manual; do not substitute.
  • If motorising, ensure the opener and mounting are suitable for the door’s wind load.

Step 17. Troubleshooting: fix coning, scraping, and alignment issues

If your door doesn’t run true on the first go, don’t panic—most issues come back to level, alignment, and even tension. Work “inside looking out”, keep fingers clear, and control the roll whenever loosening U‑bolts. Make one change at a time, test a short cycle, then lock it in. Do not oil the tracks; clean them instead.

  • Coning (roll forms a cone): Re‑centre the roll and equalise side overlap. Confirm brackets are level and co‑planar, bottom rail parallel to the floor, and guides plumb. If it persists, slightly re‑tension per Step 14, then re‑test—uneven tension and mis‑centering are the usual causes.Scraping/rubbing in guides: Re‑plumb guides, pack behind fixings (don’t twist), and set a consistent small clearance at both edges. Check lock/handle screws aren’t protruding into the guides.
  • Door walks to one side: Re‑check bracket level, axle square in saddles, and equal side overlap. Nudge a guide a few millimetres to re‑centre the travel and tighten top‑to‑bottom.
  • Noisy/jerky travel: Clean guides; confirm fasteners are tight (U‑bolts with flat washers under). Ensure WindLock doors are properly engaged both sides.
  • Door heavy/light after tweaks: Repeat the balance test (Step 14) and adjust spring tension in small increments only, with a capable assistant.

Step 18. Care and maintenance schedule (6‑monthly checks and lubrication)

A quiet, smooth door is a safe door—keep it that way with a simple six‑monthly routine. These checks take minutes and prevent most problems before they start. Work inside‑looking‑out, keep fingers clear of edges, and only adjust tension if you’re confident. If anything looks damaged or loose, stop using the door until it’s fixed.

  • Clean the curtain: Soft cloth/sponge with mild detergent and warm water; rinse immediately.
  • Inspect hardware: Brackets, U‑bolts/saddles (with flat washers), springs, guides, fasteners, cables, weather seal.
  • Clean guides: Use a spirit‑based cleaner; do not oil tracks; remove grit and debris.
  • Lubricate springs only: Light oil/grease on springs; avoid lubricating the lock; wipe excess.
  • Balance test: Door should hold at waist height; re‑tension per Step 14 or call a pro.
  • If motorised: Test photo‑eyes and auto‑reverse; check opener mount and drive coupling are secure.

You’re ready to install your roller door

You’ve got the plan, the PDFs, and the process—from bracket layout and a controlled lift, to safe spring tensioning, plumb guides, and a final balance test. Follow the steps “inside looking out” and you’ll finish with a smooth, quiet, correctly‑set door that’s ready for everyday use or motorisation.

If you’re sizing up a new door, double‑check your measurements, pick your series, and decide whether you want manual, motorised, or WindLock for your wind region. Need gear? We supply Australian‑made doors in custom sizes, with matching parts and openers, shipped nationwide. If you’d like pricing or a hand choosing the right setup, start here: DoorSupply. Once your door lands, keep this guide and your series PDF on hand, install methodically, and you’ll have a professional result without the callbacks. Safe install, and enjoy the smooth roll.