Door Security Solutions: 15 Ways to Safeguard Your Home
Kick-ins, lock-picks, crowbars—whatever method an intruder chooses, chances are they’ll try your door first. Statistics show almost 70 percent of Australian break-ins begin at a door, yet most households still rely on builder-grade locks and hollow cores that surrender with a single boot. Strengthening that weak spot doesn’t have to blow the budget or turn your home into Fort Knox.
Below you’ll find 15 door-security solutions, arranged from the quickest screw-driver fixes through to smart tech and made-to-measure garage doors. Each option lists typical costs, DIY difficulty and the Australian standards it should meet, so you can mix and match to suit your property, location and wallet. Pick one upgrade for this weekend or plan a complete overhaul—the result is the same: a front, back, patio and garage entry that tells criminals to look elsewhere.
1. Choose Solid-Core or Metal Entry Doors
The first step in any door security plan is the door itself. Hollow-core units can be booted in seconds, so swap them for solid timber or metal models that can actually withstand force.
Why solid construction beats hollow doors
Tests by the Australian Institute of Criminology show hollow-core doors fail after two or three kicks, while solid-core timber survived more than ten. Hollow panels hide only cardboard honeycomb; solid cores are a single slab or engineered laminate up to 40 mm. Fibreglass skins add weather resistance, and full steel doors sandwich insulation between 0.6 mm galvanised sheets—five times stronger in racking tests.
Minimum standards and certification to look for
Look for doors certified under AS 2688 for external use and, in bushfire zones, BAL-rated models that match your local requirement (BAL-12.5 to BAL-FZ). Minimum specs: solid timber ≥ 40 mm, or galvanised steel skins ≥ 0.6 mm with anti-corrosion coating.
Cost and installation considerations
Expect to pay around A$250–800 for a solid timber unit and A$400–1,200 for steel or fibreglass. The extra mass means you’ll need three heavy-duty hinges and a helper on installation day. Pre-drill hinge screws, level the slab, and leave a 3 mm clearance for seasonal movement.
2. Upgrade to Certified Security Screen Doors
Fresh breeze, zero worry. A compliant security screen lets you leave the main door open for ventilation while keeping crowbars and knives at bay. Unlike the flimsy fly-screens most builders toss in, these units are tested to the same forced-entry standards used for prisons and police vans—making them one of the highest-value door security solutions you can add.
What sets a “security” screen apart
To wear the label, a screen must pass AS 5039 impact, jimmy and knife-shear tests and be installed under AS 5041. Key specs include:
- 316 stainless or aluminium mesh with ≥ 750 N tensile strength
- Triple-point locking that secures head, sill and jamb together
- Internal snib (thumb-turn) so the door can’t be unlocked through the mesh
Anything sold simply as an “insect” or “barrier” screen skips these tests and is easy pickings for intruders.
Popular materials and brands in Australia
Materials dictate both price and performance:
- Stainless-steel woven mesh (e.g. Crimsafe, Screenguard) resists corrosion on the coast.
- Aluminium perforated sheets offer similar strength at lower cost.
- Galvanised steel mesh is budget-friendly for inland areas if powder-coated properly.
Expect to pay around A$800–1,100 for a hinged door and A$1,000–1,150 for a sliding version, including basic installation.
Getting your door measured and fitted
Precision matters—ask for custom fabrication to within ±2 mm of the reveal. The installer should use stainless self-tapping screws, tamper-proof hinge pins and a continuous bead of neutral-cure silicone between frame and brick to stop bimetallic corrosion. Check that the door closes smoothly and the snib engages all three locks before signing off.
3. Fit a High-Quality Deadbolt
A rock-solid slab is pointless if the lock can be popped with a screwdriver. Upgrading to a premium deadbolt is one of the quickest door security solutions you can knock over in an afternoon, yet it slams the door on most forced-entry tricks.
Types of deadbolts explained
- Single cylinder – key outside, thumb-turn inside; fine for doors with no adjacent glass.
- Double cylinder – key both sides; stops a burglar smashing glass and turning the thumb-turn. Check local fire-escape regulations before fitting.
- Captive thumb-turn – works as single cylinder when occupied, double cylinder when vacated.
- Vertical (jimmy-proof) – bolt drops into a robust strike cup, resisting pry-bar leverage.
Security grades and Australian compliance
Look for locks tested to AS 4145.2. Aim for:
- Grade S7 impact and S8 torque resistance
- 25 mm bolt throw
- Hardened steel core and anti-drill pins
- Saw-resistant security pins (serrated or mushroom) inside the cylinder.
Quality brands stamp the grading on the faceplate—no stamp, no sale.
DIY retro-fit guide
You’ll need a 54 mm hole saw, 25 mm spade bit, sharp chisel and a combination square. Mark centreline 100 mm above the existing latch to avoid clashes. Drill straight, mortice the bolt flush, then secure the strike with 90 mm screws into the wall stud, not just the jamb. Dry-fit and perform ten full lock–unlock cycles before tightening everything down.
4. Install Smart Locks With Remote Monitoring
Keys go missing, trades come and go, kids forget to lock up. Swapping the old cylinder for a smart lock solves all three problems while adding an audit trail you can check from the beach. Prices start around A$280 for a keypad model and climb to A$600-plus for fingerprint and Wi-Fi units—still cheaper than re-keying the whole house twice. Because most models retrofit the existing 54 mm bore, the upgrade sits in the “after-lunch DIY” column of your door security solutions checklist.
Core features that add real security
- PIN codes, biometrics or NFC fobs replace physical keys
- Temporary e-keys for guests with automatic expiry
- Intrusion alerts and tamper sirens sent straight to your phone
- Mechanical key override and 9 V battery jump terminals for black-outs
Integration with home ecosystems
Look for locks that pair via Bluetooth Low Energy, Zigbee, Z-Wave or Wi-Fi so they slot into Apple HomeKit, Google Home or Alexa routines. Geofencing can auto-lock once every registered handset leaves a 100 m radius—handy for forgetful teenagers.
Privacy and hacking safeguards
Stick with brands offering AES-128/256 encryption, two-factor admin login and quarterly firmware updates. Change default PINs on day one, disable auto-unlock on shared devices and review the access log monthly to spot any dodgy entries. A smart lock is only smart if you treat it like any other networked device.
5. Reinforce Door Frames and Strike Plates
A steel-cored door and Grade-S8 deadbolt won’t save you if the surrounding timber shatters on the first kick. Police break-in reports show roughly 60 percent of forced entries on hinged doors occur when the jamb—not the lock—gives way. Most Australian builders still use soft pine frames held in with finishing nails, so a quick screw upgrade and a beefier strike plate deliver an outsized security boost for less than a pub lunch.
Why the frame is the usual failure point
When a door is kicked, energy concentrates at the latch pocket. Soft pine fibres split, the keeper flies off and the bolt pops free. Hardwood jambs resist longer, while steel surrounds almost eliminate splitting—but either way, the strike plate is the real Achilles heel if it’s thin or screwed only into the trim.
Hardware reinforcement options
- Heavy-duty strike plates at least 3 mm thick
- 90–100 mm decking screws driven into the wall stud
- Full-length steel jamb shields that span hinges to sill
- Wrap-around reinforcement plates for hollow-metal frames
Step-by-step reinforcement process
- Remove the existing keeper and 25 mm screws.
- Dry-fit the new strike; mark pilot holes.
- Pre-drill with a 3 mm bit to avoid splitting, then drive staggered 90 mm screws until snug.
- If adding a jamb shield, slip it behind weather seal, clamp, then screw every 150 mm.
- Close the door and confirm the latch seats smoothly—adjust by shimming the hinges, not filing the bolt hole.
6. Add Door Jamb Shielding Kits
Even with longer screws and a beefy strike plate, a determined boot can still fracture the edge of a timber frame. A purpose-made jamb shield spreads that impact along the entire length of the jamb, turning a single weak point into a continuous steel backbone—one of the simplest door security solutions you can add after lunch.
What a jamb shield does
The shield is a U- or L-shaped steel sleeve that wraps the lock side of the frame. When force is applied, energy is dispersed over 600–1,800 mm instead of a 30 mm latch pocket, stopping splits and keeping the bolt engaged.
Choosing the right kit
Look for zinc-plated or powder-coated steel at least 1.5 mm thick. Check the profile matches your door stop depth and hinge spacing. Kits labelled “universal” often need cutting—measure twice, buy once.
Installation and finishing tips
Remove weather seal, slide the shield into position, then secure with countersunk 75–90 mm screws every 150 mm into the stud. Trim flush with the sill, re-fit the seal, and touch up with colour-matched paint to keep the upgrade invisible.
7. Use Security Hinges and Hinge Bolts
Break a hinge and the slab swings free no matter the lock. Proper hinge security is therefore essential to any door-hardening plan and costs only a few dollars.
Weaknesses of outward-opening doors
Exposed pins let thieves tap them out and lift the leaf in seconds. Even inward doors fail when tiny hinge screws rip free.
Hinge upgrades
Fit NRP or dog-bolt hinges that interlock when shut. Stainless suits the coast; hardened steel inland. Use three 100 mm hinges and drive 8-gauge screws 75 mm into the stud.
Adding hinge bolts
Install two hinge bolts: drill 12 mm holes 150 mm from the top and bottom, insert the pins and mark matching sockets in the frame. Their 15 mm protrusion locks the hinge side, yet slides back automatically when the door swings.
8. Deploy Peepholes and Door Viewers
Seeing who’s outside before you crack the door is a low-cost but high-impact security upgrade. Peepholes start at A$20 and install in ten minutes with only a 12 mm drill bit.
Traditional peephole vs. digital viewer
A brass fisheye gives a wide 200-degree view but nothing more; digital versions add night vision, motion snapshots and a live feed to your phone.
Height and installation best practice
Centre the viewer 150 cm above finished floor; for kids or wheelchair users, drill a second hole before you paint.
Privacy considerations
Install an inside shutter and choose glass lenses so crooks can’t easily reverse-scope your hallway.
9. Install Door Chains and Limiters
Chains and limiters give a cheap, immediate barrier between you and unexpected visitors, complementing heftier door security solutions.
Chain, swing bar, and concealed restrictors
- Chain: cheap, familiar, but small gap and stretches under force.
- Swing bar: stronger die-cast arm, 8–10 cm opening, quick to release.
- Concealed restrictor: morticed, hidden when shut, perfect for minimalist apartments.
Strength standards and correct mounting
Swap factory fixings for 6-gauge 40–50 mm timber screws driven into the stud, not the decorative architrave.
Everyday usage tips
Latch before unlocking, and keep spare screws with your batteries and globe stash.
10. Add Door Security Bars or Floor Braces
When brute force is the threat, nothing beats a solid metal brace wedged against the slab. Unlike a deadbolt that relies on timber trim, a bar transfers kicking energy straight into the concrete slab or tiles, giving you a last-line defence that costs under A$70.
Types of bracing devices
- Telescopic bars that slot under the doorknob
- Floor-anchored barricades with drop-in steel plates
- Portable “police” jammers for travel or rental homes
Selecting the correct brace
Confirm the adjustable range covers your knob height (67–103 cm) and that the rubber foot grips your flooring—swap pads for carpet or polished tiles.
Fast deployment and emergency exit
Mount the bar with the foot 10 cm from the door, push down to lock, then rehearse a one-hand lift so every family member can disengage it in the dark or during a fire drill.
11. Upgrade to Reinforced Garage Doors
For many crooks, the garage is the soft underbelly of an otherwise secure home. A flimsy tilt-panel or ageing roller curtain can be peeled open in seconds, handing over not only power tools and bikes but often a connecting door straight into the house. Swapping it for a reinforced, Australian-made unit adds an enormous security layer without wrecking kerb appeal—and because garage doors cover the largest opening on most homes, the pay-off is huge.
Why the garage is a target
It’s usually out of street view, noise echoes inside, and insurance data shows garages account for one in four forced entries. A kick at the centre panel or a pry-bar under the bottom rail is all it takes when steel gauge and end-locks are weak.
Material and build considerations
Pick Colorbond steel roller or sectional doors with double-skinned panels and internal struts. In cyclone or alpine regions, specify wind-locked slats or wind-strong sectional braces tested to AS/NZS 4505. Added insulation foam stiffens panels and muffles rattle attacks.
Locking and automation options
Pair the door with a motor that uses rolling-code or encrypted SECMQTT signals; burglars can’t replay the code they just captured. Keep a manual lock bar as blackout insurance and fit a shield over the release cord to block coat-hanger fishing.
DIY measurement and ordering tips
Measure daylight width and height twice, then confirm headroom: at least 250 mm for roller drums and 120 mm for low-headroom sectional tracks. Doorsupply provides downloadable PDF worksheets plus phone support, so you can order a made-to-size door that slides straight onto your brackets on delivery day.
12. Secure Sliding and Patio Doors
All the reinforced hinges in the world won’t help if a thief can simply lift your patio door off its track or pop the hook latch with a butter knife. Because glass sliders usually sit at the rear of the home—out of street view—they demand their own set of door security solutions.
Common vulnerabilities
- Shallow hook latches that can be jimmied with a screwdriver
- Aluminium frames that flex under pry-bar pressure
- Head tracks tall enough to let the entire panel be lifted clear
- Poorly placed screws allowing the interlocker stile to separate
Hardware upgrades
Retrofit a double-point mortice lock that grabs both the jamb and head rail; look for models rated to AS 4145.2 S6 or higher. Add anti-lift pins through the top frame and a keyed patio bolt at the meeting stile—fitting one 200 mm above the sill stops the sliding panel even if the main lock fails. Foot-operated locks are handy for quick ventilation without sacrificing security.
Track reinforcement
Insert an aluminium or hardwood rod in the inside track cut 10 mm shorter than the full run so it can be removed in a hurry. For chronic flex, screw a 1.6 mm steel angle to the outer track edge to block crowbar leverage while maintaining smooth glide.
13. Install Access-Controlled Entry Systems
When multiple people need access—tenants, tradies, Airbnb guests—an access-controlled entry system lets you issue, revoke and track credentials straight from your phone. These advanced door security solutions replace loose spare keys with PINs or fobs and power electric strikes or mag-locks.
Keypad and fob systems for multi-family homes
A keypad stores 100+ codes, and RFID fobs can be black-listed as soon as a tenant leaves. Audit logs resolve disputes by recording whose credential opened the door.
Intercom and gate integration
SIP video intercoms hook into the controller, letting residents buzz open the pedestrian gate and front door. Missed calls divert to your mobile with footage.
Compliance and wiring notes
240 V wiring must meet AS/NZS 3000, so get a licensed sparkie. Fit surge protection and label power isolators clearly.
14. Integrate CCTV and Video Doorbells
A watching eye is one of the cheapest psychological barriers you can add. Compact Wi-Fi cameras and smart doorbells now cost less than a dinner out, yet they provide live footage, motion alerts and irrefutable evidence if a break-in does occur—making them a natural layer in your door security solutions stack.
Deterrence factor of visible cameras
Research from the University of North Carolina found 60 % of convicted burglars steer clear of properties displaying cameras. A doorbell cam doubles the effect by recording faces at eye-level and triggering two-way audio; most intruders abandon the attempt once a human voice greets them.
Choosing camera placement and FOV
Mount units 2.2–2.4 m above ground, angled to capture:
- The approach path
- The latch side of the door
- The package drop zone
Aim for a 120–160° horizontal field of view and avoid direct back-lighting that silhouettes subjects. Use at least 1080 p resolution so police can zoom without pixel soup.
Storage options and privacy laws
Cloud subscriptions offer off-site redundancy, while local NVRs keep footage within your network—handy for bandwidth-poor rural areas. In Australia you must film only your property boundary, display a warning decal, and obtain consent before recording audio in some states (e.g., QLD, WA). Check state surveillance legislation and password-protect all devices with two-factor login to keep crooks—and curious neighbours—out of your archives.
15. Conduct Regular Maintenance and Security Audits
Even the toughest door security solutions will loosen, corrode or drift out of alignment over time. A short, repeating check-up keeps everything working as specced, protects warranties and removes the “soft target” signs burglars look for.
Monthly visual checks
- Inspect screws, hinges and strike plates for rust or backing-out; re-torque to spec.
- Test deadbolts and smart locks for smooth throw; replace batteries showing <30 % charge.
- Look for swollen timber or cracked weather seals that could stop doors closing square.
- Review camera footage to verify motion zones still cover entrances.
Annual professional inspection
Book a locksmith or garage-door tech to:
- Re-tension springs and door closers.
- Force-test electric openers and update firmware.
- Re-key cylinders if keys were lost or tenants changed.
Creating a security schedule
Keep a printed log on the inside of the meter box door:
| Task | Frequency | Date Completed | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tighten hinge/strike screws | Monthly | ||
| Replace smart-lock batteries | 6-monthly | ||
| CCTV firmware update | 6-monthly | ||
| Professional door audit | Yearly |
Keeping Your Home Secure Year-Round
Door security isn’t a single gadget; it’s a layered habit. Combine solid-core doors, Grade-S8 deadbolts, triple-lock security screens, smart tech and regular audits and you’ve ticked every box a burglar hates. The fifteen ideas above scale from a five-minute screw swap to a weekend retrofit, so there’s no excuse to leave that front, back, patio or garage entry exposed.
Start small this Saturday—drive 90 mm screws through each strike plate or drop a patio bolt into your slider. Next month, pencil in a bigger win such as a jamb shield or smart lock, and keep building until every door has at least three defences.
If your garage door still rattles like a tin drum, upgrade to a tougher, Australian-made model from our custom garage-door range. It’s the fastest way to slam shut the largest opening on your home and finish your security stack in style.