Single Garage Door Cost In Australia: 2025 Prices, DIY Tips

In 2025, the average single garage door in Australia costs between $950 and $3,500 supply-only, or $1,600 to $4,800 installed, depending on the door style, opening size, chosen finish and whether you add an automatic opener. Those headline figures hide plenty of moving parts: steel prices keep nudging up, freight surcharges vary by postcode, and the motor you select can swing the invoice by several hundred dollars.

Roller doors sit at the budget end of the scale, sectional or panel-lift models occupy the middle ground, while fully insulated timber-look or designer panels push towards the top range. This guide unpacks every cost component—materials, motors, freight, labour—so you can see exactly where your money goes and where savings still exist. You’ll find current price tables, year-on-year trends, DIY installation pointers that comply with Australian safety standards, and practical tips for stretching the budget without cutting corners on quality. First up, let’s break down what a single garage door really costs in 2025 and why the numbers have shifted since last year.

How Much Does a Single Garage Door Cost in Australia in 2025?

Compared with last year, sticker prices have crept up by an average 4–8 %. The blame sits squarely with a higher Bluescope steel index, diesel surcharges on line-haul freight and a weaker Aussie dollar on imported motors. The good news is that competition between local fabricators keeps entry-level roller doors within reach, so the all-important single garage door cost hasn’t blown out for most households. Below we break the numbers down so you can benchmark any quote that lands in your inbox.

Average price range at a glance

(Supply-only, standard 2100 H × 2400 W opening)

Roller: $950 – $1,800
Sectional / Panel-lift: $1,600 – $2,800
Tilt: $1,400 – $2,400
Designer / Timber-look: $2,400 – $3,500

Typical extras you may see on the quote:

Basic chain-drive opener: $330 – $650
Smart-phone or battery back-up kit: +$120 – $240
Professional installation labour: $550 – $1,300
Old door removal & disposal: $120 – $250
Metro delivery: often free, otherwise up to $120
Regional/remote freight surcharge: $180 – $550

Detailed 2025 price table

Prices below include GST and are based on quotes from capital-city dealers, online specialists such as Doorsupply, and regional installers collected between May–July 2025.

Door type	Manual Metro	Manual Regional	Automatic Metro	Automatic Regional
Roller	$950 – $1,350	$1,100 – $1,600	$1,300 – $2,000	$1,450 – $2,300
Sectional (single-skin)	$1,600 – $2,100	$1,850 – $2,350	$2,050 – $2,650	$2,300 – $2,900
Sectional (insulated)	$2,100 – $2,600	$2,400 – $3,000	$2,550 – $3,200	$2,800 – $3,600
Tilt (counterweight)	$1,400 – $1,900	$1,650 – $2,150	$1,850 – $2,400	$2,100 – $2,700
Designer / Timber-look	$2,400 – $2,900	$2,650 – $3,200	$2,900 – $3,500	$3,200 – $4,000

How to read the table: pick your door style, then add or subtract any bespoke extras (windows, wind-locked guides, colour upgrades). If you live outside a metro zone, assume freight at the top end of each regional range.

Price trend since 2020

Year-on-year, costs have followed a roller-coaster that mirrors the national building industry:

2020 → 2021: +6 % as COVID supply shocks pushed Colorbond coil prices higher.
2021 → 2022: +4 % fuelled by freight bottlenecks and a spike in home renos.
2022 → 2023: +1 % plateau; pent-up demand eased as interest rates climbed.
2023 → 2024: +3 % with diesel levies and labour shortages squeezing margins.
2024 → 2025: +4 – 8 % depending on brand; the Bluescope scrap surcharge added roughly $60 to every roller door.

Looking ahead, analysts expect the slowing housing approvals pipeline to cap further increases. If steel futures stabilise and container rates keep falling, we may even see modest price relief heading into 2026. For now, treat any quote that falls inside the ranges above as fair; anything higher warrants a hard look at added features, warranty length and the installer’s markup.

Key Factors Driving Price Differences

Two quotes for what looks like the same door can land hundreds of dollars apart. That is because the “price” you see advertised is usually the bare‐bones panel, with every other variable layered on top. The real single garage door cost is better expressed as

total = base door + finishes + [automation](https://www.doorsupply.com.au/blogs/news/automatic-garage-door-cost) + freight + labour + extras

Below are the five levers that move that equation the most.

Door material and finish

Colorbond® single-skin steel is the entry point: tough, UV-stable and available in 20+ colours.
Timber-look foil wrap or powder-coated aluminium adds $350–$600 because the raw material and finishing line are costlier.
True hardwood cladding or composite battens can double the panel price, yet needs regular oiling.
Insulated sandwich panels (steel-foam-steel) run $450–$700 dearer but cut summer heat and garage echo.

Think about longevity as well as looks—cheap galvanised imports can chalk or rust inside five years in coastal air.

Size and customisation

The “standard” single opening is 2100 mm H × 2400 mm W. Anything outside that attracts surcharges:

Height over 2400 mm: +$90 per 100 mm increment for extra steel and longer tracks.
Custom widths to the millimetre: +$120 set-up fee.
Wind-rated guides, vision windows or matching side doors: budget 10–20 % on top.
Measure twice; an ill-fitting door usually means reordering, not trimming.

Manual vs automatic operation

Manual roller doors shave a few hundred dollars off the invoice but most Aussies choose automation:

Chain- or belt-drive motors: $330–$650 supplied.
Two remotes + wall button are standard; extra handsets run $40–$60 each.
Smart Wi-Fi hubs or battery backup kits: +$120–$240.
If there’s no power outlet within 1 m of the motor head, an electrician will charge roughly $150–$250 to fit a new GPO.

Location and delivery fees

Metro customers often enjoy free or flat-rate $0–$120 shipping because factories bulk-run city deliveries. Outside the capitals:

Regional fringe: $180–$320
Remote or island freight: up to $550, plus barge fees in some cases

Cyclone or high-wind zones (QLD coastal, WA north) legally require wind-locked profiles and heavier drums—add 10–20 % to both door and install price.

Brand reputation and warranty coverage

Premium Australian names—B&D, Gliderol, Steel-Line—charge more, yet include:

5–10 year panel warranties
Local spare-parts stock
Nationwide service networks

Budget import kits may only promise 12 months on motors and have no field technicians. Pay a little extra now and you’re less likely to fork out for a full replacement when something breaks mid-summer.

Installation Costs: Professional Fit or DIY Project?

Installation can chew through 30–50 % of the overall budget, so it’s worth deciding early whether you’ll pay a tradie or roll up your sleeves. A straightforward single roller door on a square opening might take a pro less than two hours, whereas a tilted slab in an old shed can stretch to a full day. The figures below let you benchmark any quote against real-world averages.

Typical installer charges in capital cities

Expect the following ballpark labour prices for removal of the old door, fitting the new one, adjusting spring tension and programming the motor:

Sydney: $700 – $1,200
Melbourne: $650 – $1,050
Brisbane: $600 – $1,000
Perth: $550 – $950
Adelaide / Hobart / Canberra: $580 – $900

Add $120 – $250 if you want the installer to cart the old door to the tip. After-hours or weekend call-outs are generally 15 % more.

What affects installation hours

A licenced fitter will usually quote after a site inspection because hidden quirks can double the labour charge:

Framing condition: rotten jambs or missing noggins require remedial carpentry.
Lintel strength & headroom: undersized lintels may need steel stiffeners; low ceilings call for low-profile tracks.
Off-centre shafts and high-cycle springs: extra tuning time to balance the door.
Power access: trenching or surface-mount conduit for a new GPO adds electrician hours.
Site accessibility: tight driveways or multi-storey car parks slow unloading and setup.

Step-by-step DIY cost breakdown

Going DIY can cut the single garage door cost by 30 % if you have the right gear and confidence around loaded springs.

Item	Hire / Buy Cost
Metric socket & spanner set	$45 (buy)
Two torsion-spring tension bars	$35 (buy)
Impact driver + bits	$40 weekend hire
6-step ladder	$20 weekend hire
PPE (safety glasses, gloves)	$25
Misc. fixings & sealant	$30
Optional spring-tensioning service	$120

Total out-of-pocket: ≈ $215 plus a spare Saturday. Always lock out power, clamp the door in place and follow the manufacturer’s torque chart when winding springs.

Council permits and compliance in each state

Most swaps are classed as minor building work, but check the fine print so you don’t cop a retrospective fee:

NSW: If the façade appearance changes, a Complying Development Certificate may apply.
Victoria: No building permit needed when structural alteration is under 8 m², typical for single doors.
Queensland cyclone regions (C2 & above): Engineer’s Form 15/16 required for wind-rated doors.
Western Australia BAL zones: Bushfire Attack Level 12.5+ may dictate metal, non-combustible cladding.
SA / TAS / ACT: Generally exempt; still notify your insurer of any automation upgrade.

Tick these boxes and your new door will sail through inspection, whether you pay a pro or DIY the lot.

Cost Comparison by Door Type

Before you lock in a quote it pays to match the style of door to your budget, space and aesthetic goals. A roller door that costs a grand may do the same basic security job as a $3 k cedar panel lift, but the day-to-day user experience, thermal performance and street appeal are worlds apart. The following breakdown shows how each door category stacks up for the typical single garage opening (≈ 2.4 m W × 2.1 m H) in 2025.

Roller doors

Roller doors are the value kings of the single garage door cost equation. A simple Colorbond manual unit starts around $950 supply-only and tops out near $1,800 for wind-locked, powder-coated or oversized models. Strengths include:

Minimal ceiling tracks—ideal for low or cluttered garages
Proven reliability; few moving parts to service
Cheapest spare parts (springs $110, locks $35)

Weak points:

Limited insulation; the corrugated curtain is single-skin steel
Fewer design options, basically flat or squareline profiles

Installed price with a mid-range opener generally sits between $1,900 and $2,600 in metro areas.

Sectional / panel-lift doors

Sectionals have overtaken rollers in new suburban builds thanks to sharper kerb appeal and optional insulation. Supply-only:

Single-skin steel: $1,600 – $2,100
Insulated sandwich: $2,100 – $2,600

Add automation and install, and you’re typically looking at $2,400 – $3,400. Upsides:

Dozens of panel textures and window inserts
Better sealing, quieter operation

Watch-outs:

Needs 200–300 mm of headroom for tracks and springs
More hinges = more annual lube time

Tilt doors

Tilt, or counterweighted slab doors, are the go-to for tight headroom carports where sectionals simply won’t clear. Prices run $1,400 – $1,900 manual, $1,850 – $2,400 with a motor. Pros:

Single panel can be clad in almost any material
Works with as little as 100 mm headroom

Cons:

The door swings outward, so cars must park back a little
Counterweights add moving mass and upkeep costs

Custom or designer options

When architecture calls the shots, budgets stretch. Western red cedar battens, Corten steel sheets, perforated aluminium or glass-acrylic combos start near $2,400 supply-only and can exceed $3,500 once you factor bespoke frames, marine-grade coatings and hand-finished timber. Lead times are longer (6–10 weeks) and installers may charge extra for on-site fitting tweaks.

Quick reference comparisons

Door type	Supply-only range	Typical installed cost	Lifespan (yrs)	Curb appeal	Annual maintenance
Roller	$950–$1,800	$1,600–$2,600	15–20	★★☆☆☆	Low
Sectional (single-skin)	$1,600–$2,100	$2,400–$3,000	20–25	★★★★☆	Medium
Sectional (insulated)	$2,100–$2,600	$2,800–$3,400	20–25	★★★★☆	Medium
Tilt	$1,400–$2,400	$2,000–$3,000	15–20	★★★☆☆	Medium
Designer / timber-look	$2,400–$3,500+	$3,200–$4,800+	20+	★★★★★	High

Use the table as a sanity check: if a quote sits well above these bands, it should come with premium hardware, extended warranties or specialised features that justify the extra spend.

How to Save Money Without Compromising Quality

A few smart moves before you hit the “buy now” button can shave hundreds off your single garage door cost without forcing you into flimsy hardware or a colour you hate. Below are five field-tested tactics we see savvy homeowners use every week.

Measure once, order once: avoiding costly rework

Incorrect sizing is the number-one budget killer. Follow this mini checklist:

Measure width and height in three spots (left, centre, right; floor, middle, lintel).
Record the smallest figure to the millimetre.
Check side-room (100 mm+) and headroom (min. 210 mm roller, 300 mm sectional).
Photograph the opening and label dimensions.
A $30 laser tape is cheaper than a $500 remake plus freight.

Choosing Australian made for durability and after-sales support

Locally rolled Colorbond steel is thicker (0.6 mm vs 0.45 mm common import) and coated for our UV index. You’ll spend perhaps 8 % more up-front, but save later when the door still looks fresh and a replacement panel arrives in days, not months. Most Aussie makers also include 5–10 year warranties that transfer to the next homeowner—handy come resale time.

Bundling door + opener + accessories

Suppliers often discount when you order the whole kit together. A typical bundle might look like:

Sectional door $1,950
Belt-drive opener (incl. 2 remotes) $490
Wireless keypad $90
Bundle discount –$200
Total $2,330 (saving roughly 7 %). Ask if weather seals or battery backup can be thrown in.

Seasonal promotions and end-of-line stock

Watch for EOFY clearance, spring reno sales and Black Friday codes; factories would rather move doors than store them over Christmas. Designer colours or obsolete remote models are frequently marked down 10–20 % yet perform identically.

DIY prep to reduce installer hours

Installers charge by the clock. Do these tasks yourself:

Remove the old door and tracks.
Clear 1 m around the opening.
Fit a noggin and run power to the ceiling.
Cutting an hour from labour at $100/h quickly offsets the cost of a mate’s help and a slab of beer.

Put these steps together and you’ll keep the budget lean while still ending up with a door you’re proud to roll up every morning.

Ongoing Expenses to Budget For

The invoice doesn’t end once the installer drives away. A garage door is a mechanical system that needs a little money set aside each year for smooth, quiet and safe operation. Think of the costs below as routine “running fees” much like servicing a car—ignore them and the single garage door cost spikes when something fails unexpectedly.

Annual servicing and lubrication

Professional tune-up: $120 – $180 once a year covers spring balance check, force-limit reset, hinge oil and safety-reverse test.
DIY option: a lube kit ($35) plus 20 minutes with a rag and socket set.
Staying on schedule adds years to the motor and stops corrosion before it sets in.

Replacement parts and opener upgrades

Plan for wear items roughly every 7–10 years:

Torsion/extension spring pair: $140 – $260
Nylon roller wheel pack: $45
Logic board or full motor swap: $330 – $650
Tech lovers may also budget $120 for a MYQ/Wi-Fi hub or battery back-up when they become available on sale.

Energy consumption of automatic doors

Most motors sit in standby 23 h a day drawing 4–6 W.
Annual kWh = (standby W × 24 × 365 ÷ 1000) + (cycles × 0.1)
For an average 4 opens a day that equals roughly 60–100 kWh, or $18–$30 a year at a 30 ¢/kWh tariff—less than a decent pizza.

Insurance and home value impact

Insurers often shave $25-$60 off annual premiums when a motorised, lockable door replaces an old tilt-up. Real-estate agents report a 1-2 % boost in sale price thanks to better street appeal and perceived security—meaning the door can pay for itself when you next move.

Where to Buy: Comparing Local Dealers, Big-Box Stores and Online Specialists

Once you know the numbers, the final piece of the single garage door cost puzzle is picking the right supplier. Price, lead time and after-sales help vary widely depending on where you shop, so it pays to match the purchase channel to your budget and skill level.

Brick-and-mortar garage door dealers

Traditional dealers run showrooms, do onsite measuring and manage the installation end-to-end. Expect convenience and product demos, but also a 10–20 % markup to cover premises and sales staff. Lead times are generally short because most dealers order weekly from nearby factories, and warranty claims are handled in-house, which is handy if you’d rather not lift a spanner yourself.

Hardware chains (Bunnings, Stratco)

Big boxes stock off-the-shelf roller doors in a handful of sizes and colours. On the upside, you can load a door onto a trailer today and pay trade-card pricing. Downsides include limited colour choice, no custom sizing, and the need to organise your own transport, installer and any cut-down framing. Once those extras are added, the headline bargain can creep close to a dealer’s quote.

Online direct-to-consumer brands

Ordering online lets you bypass showroom overheads and specify the door to the millimetre. Specialists such as Doorsupply manufacture in Melbourne using Australian Bluescope steel, ship free to most metro areas and email PDF install guides for DIYers. Because everything is built to order, you’re not paying for features you don’t need, and support is usually a quick phone call or live chat away.

Checklist for choosing a supplier

AS/NZS 4505 wind and impact rating certificate
Written warranty: panels 5 + years, motor 3 + years
Transparent delivery fees and realistic lead times
Spare-parts availability for at least 10 years
Local phone support, not just email tickets

Tick those boxes and you’ll avoid nasty surprises, no matter which channel you choose.

Quick Answers to Common Cost Questions

Short on time? The mini-FAQs below cut through the noise and give you rapid-fire numbers you can trust. Use them as a cheat sheet when you’re talking to suppliers or sanity-checking a quote.

What is the cheapest single garage door style?

A manual, single-skin Colorbond steel roller door is the bargain champion. Expect to pay around $950 supply-only for a standard 2100 mm × 2400 mm opening, plus $180–$250 freight if you live outside a metro zone. It’s basic but tough, requires almost zero maintenance and keeps your upfront single garage door cost well under two grand even after you add DIY installation consumables.

How much extra does automation add?

Bolting on a motor typically costs $330–$650 for the hardware and another $150–$250 if an electrician needs to install a ceiling GPO. On a $1,500 roller door that pushes the invoice up 25–40 %, but the lifetime running cost is tiny—roughly $20 a year in electricity based on Australian energy tariffs.

Are garage door prices negotiable?

Definitely. Dealers and online sellers usually have 5–10 % wiggle room, especially if you’re ordering the door, opener and remotes together. Ask for free delivery, bundle discounts or an upgraded keypad instead of a straight cash markdown. Installers may also drop removal fees when the site is prepped and the old door is stacked at the kerb.

Does a new door add resale value?

Real-estate data shows a modern, motorised garage door returns 75–90 % of its cost at sale time and can nudge the overall property value up by 1–2 % thanks to fresher street appeal and improved security. Insulated panel doors in fashionable colours tend to fetch the highest premiums in competitive suburban markets.

Ready to Budget Your New Garage Door?

A quick recap before you hit the spreadsheet: for 2025 a standard single door costs $950 – $3,500 supply-only, with $550 – $1,300 worth of installation labour taking the all-in figure to roughly $1,600 – $4,800. Where you land inside that band depends on material, size, motor choice, freight and whether you DIY or hire a pro. Tick the basics—accurate measurements, Australian-made steel, bundled opener—and you’ll keep surprises to a minimum while still pocketing any DIY savings (often 30 % or more).

The smartest next step is to collect at least three written quotes and compare the total cost of ownership, not just the sticker price. Ready to see real numbers tailored to your opening? Grab an instant, obligation-free quote in minutes through the DoorSupply online quote tool and lock in your budget with confidence.

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